Monday, June 29, 2009

Monday Morning Coming Down

It's 9:43 am here in New Mexico, I'm listening to Serge Gainsbourg sing Initials B.B. and the skies are overcast with what looks like the makings of another good thundershower today.
The monsoon season has got an early start this year, usually the storms don't come 'til late July or August, but they are here.
Thank Lilly.
Lilly is a small, stooped Apache lady whom I have known for years. I first met her when I was a cop as she is a bad alcoholic. There is no crime of public intoxication in New Mexico but we would often get calls on Lilly, that she was drunk, bugging people, or just a danger to herself and we'd go out, pick her up and either take her into protective custody (detox) for a few hours or (more often) drive her over to the res and hand her off to one of the BIA cops to deal with.
About ten years ago one of the BIA guys brought her in to our jail for some charge and as he was getting her out of his car she tried to take his gun. It was sad, but funny, this tiny old woman trying to take this young cop's gun. Funny because he was laughing, "Lilly, knock it off," in that wonderful accent Natives here in the West have, and slapping her hands away as they turned in circles with the pistol as their axis.
Now days my contacts with Lilly are not quite as entertaining. She comes into the cafe every once in a while, sometimes a couple times a week for a while, then I won't see her for months, and we always feed her. She always just asks for a slice of pepperoni pizza and a glass of water. Sometimes, if she has money, she'll try to pay. Sometimes I let her.
Often she talks to people at other tables and frankly I enjoy this, because people don't know how to act when strangers approach and start telling them a story, or worse, asking questions.
So, I like to watch people squirm a little. Not a lot, just a little. Though one time I watched an ER nurse very roughly clean a wound on the hand of a guy who had beaten his wife with a beer bottle. I did enjoy that. A lot.
But Lilly just tells people things like she turned into a bird, or that she made it rain.
A couple of days ago, the afternoon after the first of the monsoon rains, I saw her as she was walking and she stopped and, with a proud grin, told me that she had made it rain.
And I think that she did.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Sausage 1.5

Ok, folks, I've adjusted the recipe a bit more and now have what I consider the MOAISINA, the Mother of All Italian Sausage in North America.
Do the recipe as listed below but substitute Ancho chile powder for paprika and cayenne for the listed Ancho amount. Bump up the black pepper by about a tsp and the red pepper flakes by about a TBS. Enjoy. No, really someone make this and tell me what you think. Or come by and have some here. Whatever.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Sausage-making Primer

This is the recipe for the Italian sausage that we use now on our pizzas. I fry it loose no more than the day before use as it has a tendency to dry out. I adapted the recipe from one in Charcuterie, by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn.


10 pounds boneless diced pork butt.
6 tablespoons kosher salt
4 tablespoons brown sugar
4 tablespoons toasted fennel seeds
1 tablespoon ground coriander
6 tablespoons paprika
1 teaspoon Ancho chile powder*
8 tablespoons dry oregano
8 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
4 tablespoons red pepper flakes
4 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper
11/2 cup cold beer
1/2 cup cold red wine vinegar




* I make the chile powder by using the dried chile pods available in most markets and roasting them in the oven until completely dry and brittle. Remove the tops and pour our the seeds and then grind. The powder has an amazing smokiness which I love.




As soon as you get back from grabbing the stuff you forgot the first (and second) time you went to the store, begin drinking.



Place equipment in freezer, you want to keep the meat as cold as possible throughout the process for safety reasons.



Gather all your seasonings and repeat step one.





Toast the fennel seeds...





...and add to other seasonings and mix well.






Get a nice sharp knife, I like Howard here...





...and about ten pounds of pork butt.




Dice the pork into one inch cubes and combine with the seasoning mix. You can grind immediately, or cover and chill over night.






Be sure to save a few chunks to saute and wrap in a flour tortilla for a tasty snack.






Grind chunks, I prefer using a course plate. If you use a hand grinder you should set the bowl you're grinding into in an ice bath. Using an electric grinder, properly chilled equipment and meat, you should be able to work fast enough to skip this step.


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Add beer and vinegar and mix for one minute using the paddle attachment. Sausage can then be fed into casings to make links, formed into patties, or fried loose.





If you don't have a meat grinder or counter top mixer you can get decent results using a food processor (gonna need to be a burly one though) and pulsing in short bursts to the desired consistency. Be sure to use an the ice bath if doing it this way and pre-chill the blades and bowls as this method creates a lot of unwanted heat.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Cafe Z pics










Finally got some pics from Cafe Z. She's been open for almost two weeks now and the reviews are good.

Tattoo pic, finally.



By 10:30 am yesterday I was reclining as a burly, heavily inked and gauged young man in a Rebel flag cap gently shaved my leg.
It's not what it sounds like. A couple of hours and a fair amount of pain later the food tat was done.
I finally got it colored yesterday after having to wait for a fairly serious contusion (drunk soccer), chigger bites (Oklahoma visit), some puppy scratches and a minor burn to heal.
I think I'm calling this piece Omnivore's Dilemma.
Design by my friend Lindz, ink by my friend Gypsy.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Lovin' the Modern Age

I just fired someone by text. No shit. I really didn’t think it was possible, but when it came down to it, it was just so much easier than doing it by phone. Besides, she started it.
I’d already fired M once, a few months ago, she was one of the red shirts beamed down to…well, you know, and here we go again.
Last time it ended with her, “I’m in high school, I can’t be there every day!”
To which I responded, “I’m not expecting you to be here every day, just the days you’re fucking scheduled!”
This time it was a no show and a lie about a wreck. Ok, bring me a police report. She’d already told me that her friend had been hurt and taken to the hospital and was having surgery. But she said there was no police report..
Accident with injury equals mandatory police report.
Nope, no report.
There has to be, it’s the law, the hospital would have called it in even if she hadn‘t. Totally picked the wrong thing to lie about this time.
"I have the hospital paperwork."
"I don’t need that, bring the police report."
Finally an admission that she’d lied, friend had gotten sick…blah, blah, blah, then the defensive, “I knew this was going to happen, C said you were talking shit about me…”
“Not true, and irrelevant. You no-showed, you lied, you’re done.”
Anybody want a job?

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Bye, Friends

I called Fragozo's today to place an order for linguica and chourico and got the answering machine and found out that this fantastic company was no longer in business. So far as I know this restaurant has only used this brand of both sausages for the entire 18 years of it's existence, it is the one ingredient we use that I didn't want to try making for myself just because I really, really liked the product and the folks who made it.
I like our Italian sausage just fine, but I get it through either of the giant food suppliers I buy from with no contact with the company, and I can make a pretty good Italian sausage for half the price; same with canadian bacon.
I would have known sooner if I ordered online, but I never liked doing that because I always enjoyed talking to Alison; she has a great accent and great sense of humor and was always more than willing to go out of her way to help, from walking me through my orders the first few (ok, most) times, making suggestions based on past use and shipping. Once, when I desperately needed some linguica air shipped after their UPS pick up she said, "Aw, what the heck, I'll just throw it on my bike and drop it off at the UPS store on the way home."
That's customer service.
The article below is from a link on Fragozo's web site. The last line gives me hope, in the mean time I'll be looking at some sausage making equipment.

Recession was last straw for struggling New Bedford linguica maker


By BECKY W. EVANS revans@s-t.com May 07, 2009 6:00 AM

NEW BEDFORD — After 88 years and three generations of sausage-making, New Bedford Linguica Co. Inc. has shut the doors of its North End factory and stopped production of the Fragozo family's spicy Portuguese pork sausage.
"The cost of doing business ... and the economy have made it more difficult for us to produce the high-quality product our customers are used to receiving," said Alison Fragozo Anselmo, the plant manager, who co-owns the company with her mother, sister and brother.
The bad economy made for expensive ingredients, high fuel costs and a decrease in demand from restaurants that were cutting back or closing, Anselmo said.
To stay in business, the company, which employed eight people, would have had to compromise the quality of its smoked sausage — something it was not willing to do, Anselmo said. So the Fragozo family decided to close the factory at 56 Davis St. and did so with little fanfare.
"We just informed our customers we were going out of business, and that was that," Anselmo said.
On April 20, the family posted a message on its Web site, notifying customers of the closing: "We would like to take this opportunity to thank all of our customers for their years of support." The message cited the economy and "changes in federal regulations" as reasons for the closing, although Anselmo told a reporter it was not so much changes in regulations but the "cost of continuing to meet the demands" of expensive meat inspection requirements.
Fragozo and other local sausage producers submit to inspection by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Anselmo's grandparents, John and Angelina Fragozo DeMello, founded New Bedford Linguica Co. in 1921. When her grandmother died in 1995, Anselmo's mother inherited the business and recruited her children to help produce linguica and chourico that was sold under the Fragozo brand.
Closing a business that had so much family history "is a sad thing," said Anselmo, who worked at the company for 15 years. She said she will miss talking with customers and watching them take their children to the same sausage factory they visited during their own childhoods.
Anselmo said Fragozo's customers "are heartbroken" by the closing.
"We are heartbroken, too," she said. "It was a business decision."
For two decades, Paul Innis bought Fragozo linguica for his Have a Clambake catering business in Wareham. "One of the features of a local clambake around here is the linguica," he said.
Innis said he chose Fragozo linguica because of the company's smoking process, which "made it a little different" from other local brands. With Fragozo exiting the Portuguese sausage industry, he said he probably will buy from one of the larger Fall River linguica companies.
Innis said it "was a shame" that the economy and regulations had forced "the little guy" out of the market.
The area's remaining Portuguese sausage producers include Gaspar's Sausage Co. Inc. in Dartmouth, Lisbon Sausage Co. (Amaral's) in New Bedford and Michael's Provision Co., Acoreana Chourico Manufacturing, Mello's North End Manufacturing Inc. and Furtado's in Fall River.
Those producers now will have to compete in an open-bid situation to determine who will get to supply linguica for the annual Feast of the Blessed Sacrament in New Bedford, said Edward Camara Jr., director of media and public relations for the feast.
"It has to be a good price and a good product," he said.
In the past, Fragozo supplied linguica for the feast, including an order of 3,000 pounds of the spicy sausage for last year's festival, Camara said. Fragozo linguica had the perfect blend of spices and just the right amount of fat, he said.
"We have been dealing with them for a number of years and felt it was a very good product and they offered us a very good price," he said.
Anselmo said her family has yet to decide what will happen to the factory and its sausage-making machinery. But they have decided they will not reveal the secret blend of spices that won them loyal customers across the country and abroad.
"That's a family secret," Anselmo said. "You never know what the future holds."